TRiumph 1966 5TA forks

[tone def]

triumph forks.jpg

Advice needed with my reassembly of forks as i bought new stanchions seals bushes etc but when I reassemble them there is a 1" or gap between the bottom of the steel gators a d the top if the dust cover. It's weird as springs are correct length but of course the steel gators will hit the top of dust cover when compressed am I missing a spacer or what the hell is going on here ? I can post a photo if that helps




Cheers Tone

[Tman]

Assemble the forks up properly with the sliders and then see what it's like, but if you're saying the chrome oil seal holder won't fit inside the "Steel gator" you've got something wrong as it wasn't designed to fit together like that. There's usually a rubber compressable gaiter between the chrome cover and the lower yoke.

[tone def]

thanks Tman, trouble is the chromed dust excluder sleeve nut is supposed to fir snugly inside the lip of the steel gators (see photo on original posting) as there is no rubber boot on my model only the steel gators. On my old setup everything matched up but maybe I bought the wrong length stanchions?


cheers

T

[Paul in NZ]

All the spring over staunchion forks are a bit 'tricky' to assemble.

Basically you can't put them all together on the bench. The proper way to do it is with a threaded fork tool which winds into the top of the staunchion and you use it to pull the fork up into the triple trees (people used to use broomsticks etc) which compresses the spring. Once the staunchion is up to close to the right place you nip it up on the bottom triple clamp and put the top nut on and wind it home from there (after undoing the bottom triple tree nut of course.

[tone def]

Hi Paul, do you have Skype at all? I need to explain to someone in in the know what's going on with these damned fork covers.

[Paul in NZ]

Hi - Look - the best option is to download the factory manual from this website as they are really VERY good. However - As far as I remember (mine don't have steel gaitors just rubber ones) from other times...

The chrome dust seal holder fits inside the steel cover. It has to when you think about it...

In your picture the forks are not assembled correctly. You assemble the lower legs / dust seals / upper stauncions as a unit. Slip on the springs and the steel covers and you will notice that there is nothing stopping the stauncion falling down into the lower leg and that you can't feed the whole thing up into the triple trees (yokes) and assemble it. With internal springs the preload is set when you fit the top cap - external springs and its set by pulling the staunchion up into the yokes which is why you need the special tool (you can use a broom stick or other bodge but trust me the tool is well worth the investment)

This is for pulling the stauchion up into the yokes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-NORTON- ... 0421371514

Basically this kit does most old brit bikes with external springs. You select the threaded plug the fits your fork stauncion and fit it onto the bottom of the puller. Drop the puller through the yokes (remember to fit the headlamp ears) and wind it into the top of the stauncion. Now you can wind the stauncion up into the yokes against the spring and when it fits into the top yoke taper tighten the pinch bolt on the lower one. Remove the puller and fir the cap nut. Tighten the nut, loosen the pinch bolt and tighten the cap nut again.

Do both sides - loosen everything off and fit the front guard and wheel loosely. Bounce the whole plot up and down a bit to aline everything and tighten from the bottom up. Once its tight try and see if the front end will move smoothly. If not somethings out of whack or maybe the yokes are twisted. Onces its right - tighten again..

Note I assume the steering head bearings are 'set' first but best to check em again....

This is for fitting the seal holder (chrome thing) and well worth it too

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wrench-fork-sea ... 0960232059

[tone def]

Hi Paul , I just got back from long a work trip hence late reply but thanks man. I'm gonna get the kits and sort this once and for all, hopefully.
PS do I need to buy new coils now I'm fitting boyer ignition? That requires the dual ignition type huh?


cheers

tone

[Welsh Wizard]

TD
have you ridden it with the coils already , it may be you don't need to replace the coils if the are still good. If you know some one with a lathe, find a spare top nut from the forks most jumble sales you should find some, as long as the threads are good they can look tatty, get the person with the lathe to turn the nut down so that the threaded area is now the biggest diameter, also get him to put a hole through the centre so you can put a bar through, which you get brassed or welded into place, the bar needs to be about 2'6" long, you can then put this down through the yokes ( Triple trees ) to pull the stanchion up into place before nipping it with the yoke nuts.

[Tman]

PS do I need to buy new coils now I'm fitting boyer ignition? That requires the dual ignition type huh?
cheers
tone

I needed to fit two 6V coils the last time I fitted a Boyer.
It's been a while, as I like points and unless the ATD etc is really muellered I stick to them (that said, my last few restos have been mags...happy days!) but the spark can be as weak as p*ss if you use the existing 12V coils in parallel.

Re WW's home-made puller, if you find the nut just grind the hex down and drill a hole straight through for the stud (all-thread) if you can't find a machinist or welder.

[tone def]

thanks lads I'm on it. spring has truly hit here in new south wales and I want some road under me before summer heat makes it miss.